In Shanghai, there is a street in Puxi called Wujiang Lu. This one block promenade is a street food lovers paradise – with numerous stands offering every kind of skewer and dumpling one can imagine, and plenty of cold beers to accompany them (which by the way, you can consume as you stroll down the street savoring the scene).
I love this piece of the city. It is confused and chaotic, and nothing seems to have been designed – an interesting concept for a designer (and self-diagnosed neat freak perfectionist) who spends much of her time figuring out the perfect “look and feel” for every one of life’s little components. This is a place where nothing aligns, text and images are not synchronized, the built environment is disjointed and dirty, the countless mechanical units are not concealed, and the pedestrians have no organized way of using and moving through the space. But somehow, this place satisfies my senses as well as a perfect minimalist composition. This is a space where function rules, and the result is nothing less than amazing.
Of course, my awe of this spot may have something to do with the food. I have always heard that crowds don’t lie, and this seems to be the case at Yang’s Fry Dumpling stand. I have been there 4 times in the first week to enjoy their sole offering, in my novice opinion, the tastiest pork dumpling in all of Shanghai.
The dumpling itself, along with its packaging, is not very beautiful, but it serves its purpose perfectly. After paying 4.5 RMB for a package of 4 dumplings (about 65 cents), the cook scoops out 4 morsels as fast as he can and plops them onto a crookedly placed piece of tissue in a dull styrofoam container. You are on your own after this. You must squeeze your way into the depths of the stand to where the vinegar, chilies and chopsticks await. After dousing the dumplings with these accoutrements, its back out to the alley to find a perfect piece of pavement on which to dine (provided you already have your cold Tsing Tao in hand).
These things are hot! You need to bite a small hole in the dumpling and suck out the steaming soupy liquid first. Then, I usually try to get some of the crispy bottom, some of the pork filling, and some of the soft sesame seed laden top in each bite, which is difficult but worth the effort. Each dumpling takes me just over a minute to put down, and all too soon the amazing culinary experience is over. I am left looking down into my empty container of deliciousness with a lingering craving for more that seems to bring me back to this spot every couple of days. The joy found in eating these scrumptious ugly dumplings shapes this experience as much as the layered spatial concoction that one travels though enroute to Yang’s. It acts, for me, as a simple reminder that beauty is not always the result of brilliant design.